How do you size a steel I-beam?
To calculate the necessary depth of a beam, divide the span (in inches) by 20. For example, a 25' span would be 25x12 / 20 = 15”. The width of this beam would be between 1/3 and ½ the depth.
How do you read an I-beam size?
In Canada and the United States, steel I-beams are commonly specified using the depth (in inches) and weight of the beam (in pounds per foot). For example, a “4 x 13” I-beam is approximately 4 inches in depth (the measurement taken from the outer face of the first flange, to the outer face of the opposite flange).
How do I know what size beam I need?
Installing steel I-beams costs $100 to $400 per square foot for labor and materials. Materials alone will be less expensive, so if you have the time and skills for a major DIY project, that can help to cut costs. A 10-foot steel I-beam alone will cost $60 to $180, while a 40-foot beam will cost $240 to $720.
Steel I-Beam Sizes (Wide Flange)
|W 24 x 68||23.7||8.97|
|W 24 x 62||23.7||7.04|
|W 24 x 55||23.6||7.01|
|W 21 x 147||22.1||12.51|
|W 21 x 132||21.8||12.44|
Use joist length “b” to determine the size of Beam 2. Joist size is determined by using the longest span joist (7'). The Joist Span indicates that 2x6s at 24” O.C. would be adequate for this span. For Beam 1, use a joist length of 13', (6'+7') and a post spacing of 9'.
If you are considering a 20-foot span, there is a certain size beam that is required. For 20-foot spans, the wood beam has to be at least 18 inches in depth.
"I"-Beam - Standard
|Designation Depth in inches x weight Per Ft. Lbs||Weight Per Ft. (Lbs.)||**Surface Area Foot of Length2|
|S12 x (12x5)||31.8||3.43|
|S12 x (12x5-1/4)||40.8||3.47|
You would need to provide specific sizes for the I beam vs. Channel question but in general a channel is one half of an I beam that is split down the vertical rib so yes, the I beam is stronger. But it also depends on the weight per foot, the flange width, and the thickness of the flanges.
The standard I-Beam is named for their distinctive shape, similar to a capital letter “I”. The horizontal pieces are known as flanges, and the vertical piece is called the web. This shape is very efficient for carrying loads of weight without bending.
If you have a 30-foot span, it is important to know just how long a beam you will need for support. There is a good rule of thumb for this: divide your span (in inches) by 20. So, if your span is 30 feet (or 360 inches) you would divide that by 20 to come to 18 feet.
Max. Live Load 30 lbs/ft2 (1436 N/m2)
|Maximum Span (ft - in)|
|Nominal Size (inches)||Joist Spacing Center to Center (inches)||Lumber Grade|
|2 x 8||24||12' - 4"|
|2 x 10||12||20' - 3"|
|16||18' - 5"|
How big of a beam do I need to span 14 feet? According the charts I have, you would need a 6×12 beam on each side to support 7680 pounds over a 14 ' span (assuming you want less than a 1/360 deflection).
An H beam has a thicker central web, which means that it is generally stronger. An I beam generally has a thinner central web, which means that it is often not able to receive as much force as an H beam.
The maximum bending moment is 12 x 600/7, which is 900 foot-pounds, for a beam that spans a 12-foot room.
BUDGET. Wood, whether it's dimensional lumber (whole wood) or engineered, usually costs less in terms of both the material and labor to install. Laminated veneer lumber (LVL), composed of several layers of glued plywood comes pre-made from a factory but still costs less than structural steel I-beams.
In the United States, steel I-beams are commonly specified using the depth and weight of the beam. For example, a "W10x22" beam is approximately 10 in (25 cm) in depth (nominal height of the I-beam from the outer face of one flange to the outer face of the other flange) and weighs 22 lb/ft (33 kg/m).
A steel I-beam costs $6 to $18 per foot for just the materials. Steel support beams for residential construction costs $100 to $400 per foot to install or between $1,200 and $4,200.
Steel I-Beam Cost.
|Type||Per Foot Installed||Total Cost Installed|
|LVL Beam||$50 – $200||$800 – $2,500|
|Steel I-Beam||$100 – $400||$1,200 – $4,200|
I beam consists horizontal element - flanges and vertical element - web. What is the difference between S-shaped beam section to wide flange H beam? First, wide flange steel beam has parallel flanges while S-shaped I beam has tapered flanges which have a slope on the inside surface.
Joist Spacing (o.c.) For conventional guardrail post installation bolted to the side of the framing, larger framing will provide more strength in the rails. For upper-level decks, 2x10 is recommended as the minimum size to use for strong guard post connections.
A 4x6 joist is theoretically stronger than a doubled 2x6 joist because it's 1/2" thicker, but the actual strength depends upon the knots and other inherent weaknesses of any particular piece of lumber (#2 lumber can have some nasty spike knots or large not-so-tight round knots or wane).
For 16 foot span, size of beam for 2-3 storey residential building, using thumb rule,1 foot (span of the beam) = 1inch (depth of beam), is about 12″×16″ in which beam width is 12″ and beam depth is 16″ providing with 2nos of 12mm bar at top, 2nos of 16mm bar at bottom and 2nos of 12mm crank bar of Fe500 with stirrup T8
Size of the deck
Most professionals will encourage you to consider going with a 6×6 deck post form the outset of the project. Decks that are going to be built higher than just a few feet off the ground will likely need something more substantial than a simple 4×4.
A Redwood 4x6 beam should span no more than 6' between supporting posts.
I-beams typically weigh between 6 and 12 pounds per foot but could weigh up to 50 pounds or more.
280" Thick, 12 lbs Weight Per Foot, 20 ft Length.
If your beam design is governed by yielding in bending (not lateral-torsional buckling/plate buckling, etc) then you need to increase the second moment of area (I) to increase the bending capacity. Usually this is done by fastening additional plates to the beam, typically onto the flanges.
The most efficient shape for both directions in 2D is a box (a square shell); the most efficient shape for bending in any direction, however, is a cylindrical shell or tube. For unidirectional bending, the I or wide flange beam is superior.
I-Beam. . . . is the quintessential beam profile. The design is super strong in the vertical direction, yet has a uniform and equal response to other forces. It has the best strength to weight ratio (vertical) making it a great DIY beam profile — for Cranes, and for the main beams of big and/or long trailers.
The design of an I beam makes it capable of bending under high stress instead of buckling. As the beam receives the load, the force is transmitted perpendicularly, thus supporting other members of the beams. I beams are mostly made of steel, therefore ensuring structural integrity with relentless strength and support.
1) What's the difference between I-beam and wide flange beam? An I-beam has tapered flanges with a narrower flange than most wide flange beams, making it a lighter building material. A wide flange beam, with wider flanges and web than the I-beam, can handle more weight, but this makes it heavier overall.